Pesto alla Genovese

Basil, pine nuts, garlic and two cheeses, pounded

Category
Sauce
Cuisine
Italian
Serves
About 1 1/2 cups
Time
20 minutes
From
Phil Price

basilpine nutsparmesanno-cook

Pounded, not blitzed, if you have the patience — a mortar bruises the basil and releases the oils, where a blade chops and oxidises it. The difference is visible: pounded pesto stays green, processed pesto turns khaki within the hour.

Two cheeses, not one. The pecorino is what gives it the edge.

Ingredients

  • 3 ounces basil leaves (about 4 packed cups), picked from the stems
  • 1/3 cup pine nuts
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Sardo or Romano
  • 2/3 cup good olive oil

Instructions

  1. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan over medium heat until just golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Cool completely.
  2. Pound the garlic with the salt in a large mortar until smooth.
  3. Add the pine nuts and pound to a paste.
  4. Add the basil a handful at a time, grinding against the sides of the mortar with a circular motion rather than pounding straight down.
  5. Work in both cheeses, then add the olive oil in a slow stream, stirring.
  6. Taste for salt. Use at once, or cover with a film of oil and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Notes

  • If using a food processor, chill the bowl and pulse in short bursts to keep the heat down.
  • Freezes well without the cheese; stir it in after thawing.
  • Traditionally tossed with trofie or trenette and boiled potatoes and green beans.