Crème Pâtissière

Pastry cream — the mother of the pastry creams

Category
Basics
Cuisine
French
Serves
About 3 cups
Time
30 minutes
From
Phil Price

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What Béchamel is to the sauces, this is to pastry: a base that becomes four other creams depending on what you fold into it. Tarts, éclairs, mille-feuille, doughnuts, trifle — all of it starts here.

The one counterintuitive step is that it must boil. Pastry cream contains starch, and starch needs a full boil to thicken properly and to neutralise the enzyme in egg yolk that would otherwise thin it again in the fridge.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped (or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract)
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 2/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/4 cup cornstarch
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold

Instructions

  1. Bring the milk to a bare simmer with the vanilla bean and its seeds. Take off the heat and leave to infuse for 15 minutes, then remove the pod.
  2. Whisk the yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt together in a bowl until pale and smooth.
  3. Whisk about a third of the hot milk into the yolks to temper them, then pour the mixture back into the pan.
  4. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly and getting into the corners of the pan, until it thickens. Keep whisking and let it boil for a full minute — it will look alarmingly thick, then loosen slightly. That is the starch cooking out.
  5. Off the heat, whisk in the cold butter.
  6. Pass through a fine sieve into a shallow dish. Press cling film directly onto the surface and chill for at least 3 hours.
  7. Whisk smooth before using — it sets to a solid block and needs waking up.

Notes

  • Do not stop whisking. Pastry cream catches on the base of the pan in seconds.
  • Keeps 3 days refrigerated. It does not freeze — the starch weeps on thawing.
  • Derivatives: Mousseline (butter), Diplomate (whipped cream), Chiboust (meringue), Frangipane (almond).